The land
The territory Olive cultivation in Italy and UmbriaOur green, olive-covered hills are veritable terraces overlooking Lake Trasimeno.
These ancient Umbrian lands, once inhabited by the Etruscans and steeped in history, with their unique microclimate ,bestow unparalleled organoleptic characteristics upon the olives . It is the land that has seen us be born, belong, and grow.Our oil mill is a guardian of our heritage and a bulwark for the future.
Olive growing in Italy is not only a cornerstone of the national agricultural economy, but also a true cultural emblem. The multi-millennial history of this crop in Italy, the landscapes defining the picturesque villages scattered across the entire peninsula from south to north, and the diversity of hundreds of varieties—from the most widespread to rare native cultivars found only in micro-areas across the country—make the olive tree an iconic symbol of the Bel Paese.
Italy boasts the world’s highest number of olive varieties, with more than 700 cultivars registered in the Ministry’s national catalog. As previously noted, in addition to those already officially cataloged, just as many are still cultivated across the country without having yet been studied for characterization and conservation. These neglected varieties are often represented by monumental trees that, through radiocarbon dating, have been proven to live and produce in our territory for nearly a millennium. One of the unique traits of the olive tree lies precisely in its ability to bear fruit—and thus yield oil—from its earliest years until the end of its life cycle, which under optimal conditions can easily exceed a thousand years.
Hence a question: among cultivated species, which can guarantee this infinite productive capacity?
Olive cultivation is widespread across nearly every Italian region; given global warming, olive trees can now be found growing even in the far north of the peninsula, an area well known for cold winters where temperatures frequently drop several degrees below zero. As is well known, the olive tree is especially vital to the Mezzogiorno, where the vast majority of production is concentrated: Puglia is the primary source of olives—and therefore olive oil—in all of Italy, alongside highly productive regions such as Calabria, Sicily, Lazio, Tuscany, and Campania. Looking beyond volume, what truly distinguishes Italian production is the exceptional quality of the oil produced. Outstanding producers are now found in every region, and highlighting only a few would do a disservice to the rest.
Italy’s world leadership in quality is indisputable and widely acknowledged by leading national and international guides. The rich biodiversity that characterizes the country certainly helps achieve these superior standards, coupled with cutting-edge extraction technologies and significantly reduced turnaround times between harvest and milling. In fact, while the overall volume of nationally produced oil has been decreasing year after year—which is unfortunate—the focus on higher quality continues to grow, which is undoubtedly positive. In recent years and through considerable effort, Italian olive growing, historically characterized by traditional extensive groves often populated with centuries-old trees, has been gradually transitioning toward modern cultivation systems with planting densities exceeding 300 trees per hectare.
Per capita olive oil consumption in Italy is very high, to the point that domestic production is insufficient to meet national demand. Furthermore, the export of Italian extra virgin olive oil plays a significant role in the agrifood sector. Based on the figures, one can easily conclude that even if annual production were doubled, imports from other countries would still be required—such is the immense demand for “Made in Italy” extra virgin olive oil, both abroad and on the domestic market.
The Italian olive-growing sector is in critical need of orchard modernization; the introduction of modern machinery has already boosted productivity and streamlined olive harvesting—particularly in newer high-density groves—yet much work remains to be done.
The olive tree is not merely about production; it is culture. There is an urgent imperative to safeguard the Italian olive landscape, as it serves as our calling card for visitors worldwide. Few sights are more captivating than an Italian hillside blanketed with olive groves, or miles of dry-stone walls—expertly crafted by skilled hands using native stone—that define our steepest terraced slopes. The economy surrounding the olive and olive oil sector is far from one-dimensional: it encompasses a multitude of industries, including one of Italy’s crowning achievements—tourism.
Another vital imperative is safeguarding the genetic diversity of these thousands of olive varieties, especially in light of rapid climate change and the emergence of previously unknown plant diseases. Take Xylella fastidiosa, for instance: had resistant varieties not existed within our preserved olive biodiversity, there would have been no defense to counter the die-off of millions of olive trees.
The genetic traits unique to each variety shape the myriad aromas and flavor profiles of the oils produced, standing as the single most effective answer to ensuring the survival of the species—and with it, the olives and extra virgin olive oils crafted across the Italian territory.
Among Italian regions that may not boast record-breaking production volumes, yet are indisputably recognized for crafting exceptional extra virgin olive oils with compelling organoleptic profiles, stands Umbria. The “Green Heart of Italy,” as it is renowned, claims the olive tree as its quintessential landscape element. Artistic and historical testaments abound, both along the winding paths of charming hamlets and across hillsides where olive cultivation thrives at elevations of up to 600 meters, nestled among woodlands, Mediterranean scrub, and steep slopes.
This scenic diversity is directly mirrored in the wealth of native varieties cultivated throughout the region. While university professors and researchers had already identified roughly twenty distinct cultivars half a century ago, ongoing scientific research today identifies over 100 genetically distinct varieties—some surviving as only a handful of specimens or even solitary, monumental trees. Across the region, at least seven million olive trees span nearly 30,000 hectares of groves, stewarded by tens of thousands of farms and over 200 olive mills.
Across the Umbrian landscape, encountering centuries-old—and in some cases millenary—olive trees is by no means rare, such as the Sant’Emiliano olive tree of Bovara di Trevi or the Raia of Macciano. Approaching the regional capital, these monumental specimens predominantly belong to the Dolce Agogia variety, widespread around Lake Trasimeno, with trees radiocarbon-dated between 500 and 700 years of age.
With regard to the oils extracted from the fruits of these varieties defining Umbria’s municipalities—together with others regarded as neglected and at high risk of extinction—the adoption of advanced extraction technologies has revealed distinctive profiles, both in terms of chemical composition and organoleptic qualities.
If we were to list the varieties cultivated in the region, beginning with widely distributed cultivars, we would start with Leccino and Frantoio—widespread both nationwide and abroad, including growing areas far beyond their native territory. Moraiolo, a hallmark variety of Central Italy and our Assisi-Spoleto “olive grove belt,” is susceptible to both severe frosts and overly mild winters, which leads to alternate bearing; it often defines Umbrian oils with prominent artichoke notes on the nose and palate, fresh-cut green grass fruitiness, and a bold, lingering bitterness and pungency.
Dolce Agogia is typical and widely cultivated across the Perugia area and around Lake Trasimeno—the undisputed queen in terms of the number of centuries-old specimens throughout the province of Perugia. Moving on to local varieties grown within well-defined terroirs: starting from the south, one must highlight Rajo (or Raio) from the Amelia area in the province of Terni, which, when expertly milled, stands out for its distinctive bitter notes reminiscent of walnut husk.
Moving further north, we find Pocciolo from the Spoleto area, whose monovarietal oil is exceptionally rare and surprises the palate with distinct notes of thyme, alongside Gnacolo (or Gnevolo/Nievolo), likely used as a pollinator for Moraiolo, at least around Assisi. There is also San Felice, grown primarily in the Martani Mountains; the precise origin of this variety remains uncertain, as synonyms (the same genetic variety under different names) are found in Abruzzo and Campania alike.
Nostrale di Rigali, when harvested early, proves to be a delightful revelation both for the oil yield the fruit achieves from the very onset of autumn and for its fresh herbal and wild-flower notes, alongside Limona, known for its compelling agronomic traits. We conclude this upward journey with Borgiona—distinguished by an intense, robust bitterness and pungency paired with an aroma of tomato leaf—and Gentile Grande (or Gentile di Anghiari) and Bianchella, both widespread throughout the Upper Tiber Valley.
The Umbria region’s varietal heritage does not end here. Around Lake Trasimeno in particular, public research institutions have recently rediscovered cultivars such as Rosciolo, Vera, and Rosciola Umbra (or Rosciola di Panicale)—some of which were already referenced in historical publications dating back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Dating to the 2nd century BCE, the Etruscan Tabula Cortonensis unearthed near Cortona records a land-transfer agreement signed by a party designated as eliunts, translated as an “olive merchant.” While it is highly probable that olive cultivation was already well established around Trasimeno under the Etruscans, historical certainty begins in the Middle Ages and continues unbroken to this day. Indeed, several monastic orders—for liturgical rites and daily sustenance alike—found fertile ground surrounding our Lake Trasimeno.
A recently concluded project placed strong emphasis on thoroughly investigating the molecular and functional evaluation of olive genetic resources within the Trasimeno Park area (MULTIPARK, Innovation Models for Multifunctionality and Sustainability of Farms in Park Areas – Umbria RDP 2014–2020 Measure 16.1 – Focus Area 6B – Innovation projects to stimulate local development in rural areas through the role of farm multifunctionality; funded under the Rural Development Programme for Umbria 2014–2020 – Measure 16 – Sub-measure 16.1).
The research activities were designed to encourage enterprises focused on enhancing local biodiversity heritage by incentivizing the cultivation of native varieties, thereby recovering and revitalizing products distinguished by unique, hallmark organoleptic and nutritional profiles.
By promoting and enhancing these rediscovered genetic resources, the initiative seeks to boost the competitiveness of agricultural enterprises. In addition to the genetic identification of centuries-old olive trees across the Trasimeno area—most notably on Polvese Island—and the organoleptic and nutraceutical characterization of the oils derived from these varieties, GPS coordinates were recorded. This mapping serves both to readily pinpoint each specific tree and, above all, to design dedicated olive oil tourism itineraries grounded in the scenic beauty of the sites and monumental specimens, as well as in robust technical and scientific data—transforming the journey into an authentic story rather than mere folklore.
Propagated from mother trees, the unique native varieties genetically identified during the study will soon be planted in larger numbers within conservation groves, where the analyses conducted to date will be expanded and refined.
Focusing on the Trasimeno area, we can conclude that on Polvese Island and within the Umbrian territory bordering the lake alone, more than 30 varieties distinct from all others—and therefore globally unique—have to date been rediscovered, mapped, and studied, in the hope that they will foster renewed agricultural, landscape, tourism, and consequently economic interest.
Dott. Roberto Mariotti
Ph.D Soraya Mousavi
Istituto di Bioscienze e BioRicerche, Consiglio Nazionale delle Ricerche. I.B.B.R – C.N.R